no water anywhere on the route: carry all of it from the hut

six summits above 2000 m on čvrsnica, plus a jeep that saved the last few kilometres

below džamija at first light, then the two ljeljens to close the loop

the last water at kamenac, then nothing until the ridge

visočica, more snow than expected and trout on the way home.

Oštro

old fortress walls above the confluence of the rakitnica and neretva

crvanj in late autumn, stone underfoot, light doing most of the work

october on čvrsnica — four peaks, two cars, terrain that keeps you honest

the longest one-way route on prenj, unmarked, rough in places, and probably the best

first time on treskavica, veliko jezero visible from the ridge

eight summits above two thousand, wild raspberries between the last two

old waymarks and goat paths on the wilder side of prenj

five summits above 2000 m on prenj, with a guide who knew the shortcuts

zelena glava summit ridge, prenj, june morning

the long approach to botin, june heat and a bivak coffee on the way down

southern bosnia in winter, steep finish on icy ground, wind at the top

velika lelija in early november, the long flat approach worth forgetting